By F.C. Foodie
Dining Critic
For months, residents wondered when the former Hooters’ on Ga. Highway 85 in Fayetteville would be re-developed. Busy commuters drove by the site an saw a sign signaling that Onyxx restaurant would soon be open for business.
Finally, towards the end of last year, the restaurant opened and foodie finally made his way to the eatery last week.
Walking through the doors, you begin to realize you’re entering a special place. The ceiling resembles piano keys and compliments the live jazz offered on the weekends.
The menu has a decided New Orleans emphasis with items ranging from Cajun chicken tenders to peach bread pudding. I was talked into ordering the gumbo as a starter from the waiter and I can also heartily recommend it. It’s probably the closest you’ll get to Louisiana without making the trek. The soup features shrimp and andouille sausage, along with just enough spices that give the gumbo a sassy flavor.
The garden greens salad is also an excellent choice. The salad features mixed greens, crumbled goat cheese and a zesty dressing of lemon-thyme vinaigrette.
I also enjoyed the jumbo crab cakes. The cakes were at least 90 percent crab meat and were served with a delicious corn salsa and creamy tartar sauce. I also enjoyed a sample of the roasted chicken that was delicious and tender. The chicken was served with an excellent sauce of roasted shallots.
Our excellent server told us that business was starting to pick up on the weekends, and I’d love to see this establishment do well. It’s one of the nicest venues on the southside of Atlanta and one of the few places to sample some live jazz.
The only thing that worries me is the price structure. Filet Mignon is $27 and a grilled Del Monaco steak is $30. A few months ago, the New York Times did a piece on entrees in the N.Y. region cracking the $40 barrier. I’ve seen plenty of $30 entrees in Atlanta, and I hope Fayette is ready to cross the line and make Onyxx a huge success. It could send a big signal that Fayette has arrived in the big leagues for dining experiences.
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