Wednesday, May 29, 2002

PTC's Famous Fish chef objects to review 'insult'

To The Citizen food critic F.C. Foodie, re your wish list appearing in your Dining Guide May 15:

Have you actually eaten at The Famous Fish Co. Inc? I find it amazing that a person who has the ability to sway people's minds can write such drivel. Are you aware how many people look to people in your profession for real guidance?

You mention the fact that you deserve more options and dismiss operations like Ted's Montana Grill and mine as being new but not hitting your idea of the mark. Ted's Montana Grill is a first-rate burger operation and serves a fine product that is not available anywhere in Georgia, never mind Peachtree City!

I noted during my search for a place to put the Famous Fish, that America, the home of the hamburger, has no upmarket specialist burger operation to speak of and without knowing it at the time, I signed a lease at The Avenue almost next to exactly that concept (Ted's) and they have pulled it off brilliantly. You dismiss that opening, along with the opening of my Famous Fish operation with casual indifference, and ask for a bigger range of restaurant options. I enjoy competition and I feel that choice is as important as price and quality, but you just want choice for the sake of it. Rather than waste your time writing about what is not available, write about what is here and what has cost millions of dollars to establish.

You then add insult to injury and go on to state that this area needs, amongst other things, and in no particular order: A French bistro, less chain store operations, Cajun style food, cheaper fish options, non-chain/genuine pizza operation, Southern dining, and Krispy Kreme.

May I take this opportunity to dismiss most of your wish list by offering the following constructive criticism?

I took my executive sous chef who worked for my London store and went and ate at Pascal's Bistro on Thursday night, (see check enclosed) and then read your article today. For the record your marketing department who want me to advertise in your publication supplied your article. An interesting thought in itself I might add based on the quality of your work!

But, back to Pascal's. I had an outstanding meal. It offers all that a French bistro or any bistro would offer and then some. The service was excellent, the food was simple honest food and well plated. The price was very fair for three courses and I could not fault anything. Why would you need another bistro type operation when you have Pascal's why don't you rather support the operations you have, when they deserve supporting, rather than look for what you perceive the local area not to have?

What credentials do you have for being a food critic based on what you feel is important by the ridiculous content of your article and the lack of any respectable facts to back it up, I suppose you can whip together a packet sauce lasagne!

I have been working and cooking in London for the past six years and the critics there are notorious fair but scathing in their ability to kill an operation if it is found wanting. Yet I have never seen or read such a disrespectful article in all my time in London. Factually inept and without a shred of substance.

The second point chain store. When I came to Peachtree City so many people came up to me and said that they were glad we were coming and wanted something that was fish orientated and not chain store. When I applied for my liquor license at your Town Hall I had a huge groundswell of support and a round of applause because we were going to be different!

So we followed that thought process and have three qualified and competent chefs cooking unique food every night. Those chefs include the owner of the worldwide operation. Collectively we have over 50 years of experience behind us.

However, if we have been faulted, it is because we are not quick enough the food takes too long. For the record we do an average of 157 dinners per night for dinner and that means that in four hours we cook 157 plates of food as a minimum. In simple terms, assuming they do not have dessert or starter, just the one plate of food, that means we cook, garnish and send a plate every 1 minute and 52 seconds. Add another plate for salad, starter or dessert to that and it becomes one plate every 1 minute 1 second, which is more likely closer to the actual scenario. And yet that has been the single biggest criticism of our operation speed of service and why, because people have become accustomed to eating on chain store terms fast, furious and all about finance.

For the record we are not interested (as the chains are) in table turns or huge turnover, we do not have shareholders to answer to, we only want the diners to relax in a casual environment and enjoy the meal in its entirety as a dining experience.

Our locally bought fish is never frozen, it comes fresh from Boston daily. Our exotic fish comes from Australia, New Zealand, Europe and even Africa again fresh not frozen. We use the best oils, vinegars and spices. Our herbs are fresh and our produce is the best available. All our sauces, dressings, marinades and spices are made on the premises we do not snip and pour or open a tin and serve. And we do this for an average price per person of $28 for all three courses at dinner and under $10 for our lunch menu.

How can you ask for more affordable? Even if we did a bulk seafood buffet with frozen rubbish we could not be much cheaper. You need to start paying for quality, you need to start understanding quality, you need to start eating whole foods and you need to understand that you eat what you pay for and that your body pays for what you eat. Processed food is not healthy food ... eat whole foods for a year, slow cooked and nutritious and you will notice the difference, I assure you of that.

We do not do refill coffee because we do not carry a pot of "stewing" percolated coffee; like Starbucks we make every cup from fresh and charge (as Starbucks does) for each coffee. The one or two complaints we have had about this compare us to what they can get at Chili's or Longhorn. Then go to Longhorn and get three-hour-old coffee I have no problem with that.

By the way, I am not knocking the chains or the individual operations named above; they are fine businesses but provide a different option. But equally do not ask for something different and then use that operation that you do not want us to be like as the comparison. That smacks of unfair to me. What does the statement above convey? Simply this: When you have an alternative to chain store food, support it and do not knock its individuality or be quiet and enjoy what chain store food represents. You cannot have it both ways!

So to answer your point about less chain store operation, rather than criticize those few independents that are here, why not throw your weight behind them and praise the things that make an independent great.

You say you want non-chain store operations but are not prepared to support those that come and moan about price points, etc. Obviously independents will be more expensive; we do not have the buying power and invariably offer so much more than service speed anyway. I say let the food do the talking; service is vital but surely you come out to eat good food and not just to "fill up" like a car at a gas station! Thankfully the bulk of our customers are aware of what value we offer and our repeat business is our strongest asset we sell over $1,000 in gift vouchers a week. That says something about us as well.

Your point about Cajun food no comment. We do two Cajun meals and they are very popular, and most of the food outlets in the area do the same. Can Peachtree City support such a niche concept? I would not put my money on it.

Cheaper fish options what a cheek! I cannot speak for the Wyndham but this is your finest hour! I have eaten at all the Atlanta fish operations and they are expensive; the one you use as an example particularly so. At The Atlanta Fish Market I ordered a hot lobster tail with mayonnaise. I got a deep fried tail from a lobster under one pound that had been frozen prior to cooking and was probably frozen when it went into the oil. It was hard, tasteless and served with nothing but a small bowl of mayonnaise no salad or garnish. The price, $26.95. That was a starter, by the way. It was one of the less expensive outlets as well. When last did you go to Atlanta for fish?

We have introduced a lunch menu and our lunch average is under $10, our dinner average is a little under $28 that is for all three courses and wine. We had a call from the local bottle store, the name of which is available if required, and he (jokingly but seriously) asked us to increase the price of our wines because we are so cheap.

All our wine suppliers have said categorically that our wine list is the cheapest in all Atlanta and surrounding areas! Yet you want more affordable (not to mention non-chain)! How much do you want to pay for your fish meal? I defy you to get it cheaper in Atlanta. Do you actually leave your house to do your job? Explain the concept of "more affordable, but still upscale..." as written in your column. I see that as an oxymoron Famous Fish delivers all you ask for and yet you knock it and most of the other independent operators in the area, not to mention the chains. In order to please you I can see I need to invest in Krispy Kreme, but what will you do on alternate days, or will you just eat there every day?

Famous Fish is listed in "Hardens" in the UK as an affordable food operation and "Hardens" is the most sought-after publication to be listed in because it is independent. Unlike your paper, Hardens does not get a critic to do a piece because the restaurant agrees to an advertising spend in your paper; they do it for the benefit of the public who eat out and support local restaurants! And survive on the quality of the advise they give the consumer think about that.

Genuine Pizza I would love to hear what Partners Pizza thinks about this comment. They are an institution and a great operation for this community ­ use your column space to support them, not bash them and I would definitely call them independent.

Southern dining I have had it in this neck of the woods, but then I get out a bit.

Krispy Kreme say no more! I think you have found your mark. America needs no more processed, "greasy" (to borrow your expression) fast food high calorie outlets than it already has. You need some real whole food options.

Many Americans, and you appear to be one, do more damage to their body every day by what they eat, than Osama bin Laden did on Sept. 11 to this country. And it is never too late to change. Fish and fresh whole-foods, the type of meal I had at Pascal's, Ted's burgers ground on the premises, more vegetable and less processed food will address that.

Mr. F.C. Foodie, I have written a longer letter to you than anticipated and am sure it will probably not be published. If it is, it may make me a few enemies but in essence it is important for restaurant operators to stand up for what they believe in and strive for quality for excellence. Good food comes at a price, good food takes time to prepare, quality ingredients come at a price and I think it is time we looked after our customers in more than just profits but in eating patterns as well.

I can assure you that our margins are far lower than the chains around us, because we put more value on the plate. The sad thing is that you the food critic does not or cannot (you may not know any better) acknowledge that. But to our customers that have and do recognize the option that Famous Fish gives them, a big thank you for the support. I hope I speak for the other independents in our area as well.

The saddest comment you make is to call Famous Fish upscale. We serve appetizers starting at $5.50 and our main courses start at $10 we currently do not have tablecloths and our operation simply pays attention to a few small details, but nowhere in the world that the concept has been placed would it qualify for the term upmarket/upscale or fine dining, except in your column and that is unfortunately the result of too many chain stores and not enough slow cooked real food served by quality minded independent operators who strive for quality of food, and a dining experience, not a "fuel stop!"

Bruce Scott

President and chef-Patron

The Famous Fish Company

Peachtree City

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