Versatile veggies

Variety of produce and cooking methods assures there's something for everyone

By CeCe SULLIVAN
The Seattle Times

Why does the subject of vegetables inflame such passionate feelings? A brief, innocent mention of Brussels sprouts in a casual conversation can lead to long-winded diatribes about their vile smell and foul flavor.

Fortunately, the field of vegetables is so vast, and their cooking methods so gloriously varied, that there’s something for everyone.

In “Vegetables Every Day” (Harper Collins, $30) author Jack Bishop divides cooking techniques for vegetables into dry and moist heat methods. It’s a good starting point, because each will produce its own flavor and texture.

Moist-heat methods

Blanch: Vegetables are briefly put into a saucepan of boiling water and the timing begins immediately. This method doesn’t fully cook the food but softens the texture.

To stop the cooking and set the color, “refresh” vegetables by immediately draining and plunging them into ice water.

Vegetables can be blanched a day in advance of serving. Once they’re refreshed, pat with paper towels, then wrap in dry towels, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Finish cooking by sauteing or stir-frying the vegetables.

Blanching and refreshing are also necessary before freezing vegetables to keep the enzymes from breaking down both color and texture.

Boil: “Essentially, with most green vegetables, you can count on having seven minutes of heat before there is a major color change,” says Shirley Corriher, author of “CookWise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed” (William Morrow, $30). “Cooking longer will cause the natural acids present in vegetables to turn them yellow-brown.”

Vegetables should be added to rapidly boiling water and the timing should begin only when the water returns to the boil. Always leave the pan uncovered. If boiling vegetables for a salad, be sure to refresh them to stop the cooking.

Braise: Vegetables contain lots of natural moisture, which releases in cooking. Lightly brown the vegetable in a little fat, than add a tablespoon or two of liquid to start the cooking process. Cover the pan and cook slowly over medium-low heat. Once the vegetable has released its moisture, add only enough additional liquid to keep it moist.

Poach: This technique is similar to boiling but uses less liquid and a lower heat to gently cook more fragile vegetables.

Steam: A large pot and a simple steamer basket are the tools needed to cook vegetables with this method. Don’t pack the basket too tightly with food or the cooking will be uneven. Bring the water to a boil before placing the covered basket above the pot.

Dry-heat methods

These evaporate moisture in the vegetables quickly, which causes the juices to brown and the natural sugars to concentrate and become very flavorful.

Broil: The heat source is above the food, making this a great technique for blistering the skins of sweet peppers or chilies for easy peeling and a smoky flavor. Sliced vegetables such as eggplant should be brushed lightly with oil to keep them from drying out under the high heat.

Grill: This technique is similar to broiling, but the heat source comes from below, and a basting liquid is needed to keep food moist. Grill baskets or a perforated stainless-steel grid are perfect for keeping small vegetables such as mushrooms and cherry tomatoes from falling into the fire below. For indoor cooking, heavy grill pans caramelize the vegetables and give them a wonderful smoky flavor.

Roast: This has become a favorite technique for cooking vegetables. Toss with a light coating of olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt, then roast in a single layer in a shallow, rimmed baking sheet. The high temperature of 400 degrees or above causes the vegetables to shrink and loose their natural moisture, which concentrates the sugars and deepens the flavor. (Baking uses a temperature of 375 degrees or lower.)

Saute: The pan size should be large enough to cook the vegetables in a single layer without crowding. The bottom of the pan should have a light coating of oil, or a mixture of oil and butter. A nonstick cooking spray can also be used. Set the pan over medium heat and wait for the oil to become hot before adding the vegetables. Blanch tougher vegetables such as green beans first to speed the cooking process.

Stir-fry: Basically, this technique is similar to a saute, but vegetables are cut into smaller pieces. Use medium-high to high heat for quick cooking and toss often.

Sources: “Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Companion: The A to Z Guide to Everyday Cooking Equipment and Ingredients” (Time-Life, $24.95); “Vegetables Every Day” by Jack Bishop; “Perfect Vegetables” (America’s Test Kitchen, $29.95) by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine; “CookWise” by Shirley Corriher.