Salads in the spotlight

Simple side salads shine on their own

By CeCe SULLIVAN
The Seattle Times

On a dusty street in the Colonia Versalles district of Puerto Vallarta, a visitor may not immediately notice the green entrance door to Hacienda Mosaico. But behind its stuccoed walls is a private paradise created by Sam Leonard, an American artist who’s lived in Mexico for 10 years.

At the hacienda, she’s designed an artist retreat where lush natural beauty, creativity, friendships and food flourish, nourishing both body and soul.

Twice a day, Leonard and her Mexican cook, Amador Santana, offer guests wonderful meals that are eagerly anticipated. The day may begin with platters of glistening fruit and bittersweet-chocolate pancakes or sweet breads with fresh mango jam. Skewers of grilled shrimp and peppers or papillotes of fresh fish and vegetables revive working artists at midday.

But it’s the simple salads rounding out meals that are irresistible. The freshest unstemmed baby greens, recently harvested from a nearby ranch, are paired with pungent arugula leaves and tossed with the lightest of dressings, perhaps highlighted with a touch of lime juice or chili powder. A sprinkling of crisp pepitas, the hulled green seeds of pumpkins, are the only other touch.

It’s a great lesson in simplicity. A side salad should be uncomplicated, a restrained accent that complements other dishes. With fewer ingredients in the salad, those on the plate have a chance to shine and create their own magic.

Simple mixed salad with lemon dressing

2 medium cucumbers
1 (10-ounce) bag salad-ready romaine lettuce
4 small radishes, thinly sliced
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil or Italian parsley

Dressing:
1 teaspoon grainy mustard
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Peel the cucumbers, halve lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Slice thinly and put into a large salad bowl. Add the romaine, sliced radishes and basil or parsley. (Don’t toss salad.) Put a paper towel over the bowl and refrigerate up to 1 hour.

2. In a small jar, combine the mustard, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Close jar and shake vigorously to combine.

3. Pour over the salad and toss well to coat all of the vegetables with the dressing. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings. Adapted from “The World’s Best Recipes: Fried Chicken from Memphis to Milan, from Buffalo to Bangkok” by Damon Lee Fowler (Broadway Books).

Tossed salad with toasted pumpkin seeds and creamy lime dressing

Toasted pumpkin seeds:
3 tablespoons green pumpkin seeds (see note)
1/2 teaspoon light olive oil
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

Salad and dressing:
10 cups mixed greens (see note)
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
3 tablespoons light mayonnaise
2 tablespoons light olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. To prepare toasted pumpkin seeds: Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Toss the pumpkin seeds with 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Scrape into the hot skillet and stir about a minute or until some of the seeds pop and begin to turn golden. Transfer to a plate and cool.

2. To prepare salad: Wash and dry greens. Tear larger, tougher leaves into smaller pieces; leave small leaves intact. Measure 10 cups greens into a bowl. Cover with a paper towel and chill. (This can be done a few hours in advance of serving.)

3. To prepare dressing: In a small bowl whisk together until smooth the chili powder, cayenne, 1 tablespoon lime juice, mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper. Taste and add additional lime juice as needed. Cover and chill. When ready to serve, toss greens with dressing and half of pumpkin seeds. Transfer to plates and scatter remaining seeds on top.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Notes:

• Green pumpkin seeds can often be found in the bulk-food sections at larger supermarkets. Toasted pine nuts can be substituted.

• Try to use a mix of about three different kinds of greens. Butter, red leaf, green leaf or romaine lettuce can be blended with arugula, mache or baby herb salad mix. For variety, take advantage of the mixed bulk greens that can often be found in produce sections.

Inspired by Sam Leonard and Amador Santana.

Tossed greens with warm walnut dressing

4 cups torn arugula leaves
1 package (8 ounces) prepared mixed spring salad greens

Dressing:
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup thinly shaved Parmesan cheese

1. To prepare the salad: Combine arugula and salad greens in a bowl, cover with a paper towel and refrigerate.

2. To prepare the dressing: Combine rosemary and olive oil in a small saucepan, place on medium-low heat and let infuse 5 minutes.

3. Remove from heat. Whisk together mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk in infused oil and stir in walnuts.

4. Pour warm dressing over salad greens, toss gently and transfer to salad plates. Sprinkle some of Parmesan shavings over each salad and serve.

Makes 4 to 6 servings. Idea from “New Food Fast” by Donna Hay (Morrow, $24.95).

Greens with piquillo peppers, romano cheese and sherry vinaigrette

8 cups mixed greens (see note)
1/3 cup thin strips piquillo peppers (see note)

Dressing:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3/4 teaspoon turbinado sugar or 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup thin shards Romano cheese

1. Clean, tear and measure greens. Put into a bowl, cover with a paper towel and refrigerate up to 1 hour. Prepare peppers and refrigerate.

2. Whisk together mustard, sugar, paprika, salt and several grinds of black pepper. Whisk in vinegar until well blended. Slowly whisk in olive oil until dressing is thickened. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Just before serving, toss greens with dressing and transfer to salad plates. Spoon peppers over the greens and top with shards of Romano.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Notes:

• Use a hardy green such as romaine combined with a mix of baby greens.

• We used Matiz Navarro piquillo peppers from Spain in this recipe. They are a type of roasted red pepper that have a full, rich flavor. Any other roasted red pepper can be substituted.