A new taste in tea

Health benefits help turn coffee nation into tea connoisseurs

By Aleta Watson
Knight Ridder Newspapers

More than two centuries after colonists dumped 342 chests of Darjeeling into the waters of Boston Harbor in protest of British taxes, tea finally is getting some respect again in this nation of coffee drinkers.

People who once viewed tea as a bag of generic orange pekoe now are happily shelling out as much as $30 for an ounce of rare green tea on the Internet. The best restaurants treat the leaves with the reverence they give to fine wine. Coffee shops pour Earl Grey alongside mocha java.

Behind this change in tastes is mounting evidence that tea is good for you, says Joe Simrany, president of the Tea Association of the USA. A growing body of research shows the traditional “cuppa” contains components believed to strengthen the immune system and reduce the risk of heart disease, stroke and cancer.

“The health issues are underlying everything,” says Simrany, who estimates the wholesale market for tea has tripled to $5.4 billion in the past 15 years. “It’s raised the awareness of tea.”

Masala chai

1 cup water
1/2 cup milk
2 rounded teaspoons spice and tea blend (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

Place water and milk into small, heavy saucepan. Bring to a full boil over medium-high heat. Turn heat to low, stir in spice and tea blend and sugar, turn off heat, cover and let steep 4 to 5 minutes. Strain into mug and serve.

To prepare in microwave: Place milk and water in 4-cup Pyrex glass measuring cup. Microwave on high until it comes to a full boil (about 5 minutes). Stir in spice and tea blend and sugar, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let steep 4 to 5 minutes. Makes 1 large mug.

Spice and tea blend

1 (4-inch) stick cinnamon
8 black peppercorns
10 whole cloves
4 green cardamom pods
1/4 cup Indian black loose tea (look for Taj Mahal or Red Label brands in an Indian grocery, or use loose Darjeeling tea)

Thoroughly crush the cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves and cardamom pods with a mortar and pestle or a meat pounder. Combine the spices and tea in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to mix before every use.

Adapted from “Savoring the Spice Coast of India” by Maya Kaimal (Harper Collins, $30)

Cranberry walnut scones

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons sugar, divided use
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2 eggs
1/2 cup cream or half and half
1/4 cup walnut halves, toasted
1/2 cup dried cranberries

Preheat oven to 450 degrees and grease a baking sheet or line it with parchment paper.

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, whirl together flour, baking powder, 1 tablespoon of the sugar and salt. With motor running, drop in butter and process for a couple of seconds until mixture is crumbly.

In separate small bowl, beat eggs with fork. Reserve 2 tablespoons of eggs. Stir eggs and cream together; pour through feed tube of processor with motor running and process just until dough starts to come together. Add walnuts and cranberries and pulse a couple of times to mix.

Turn dough out onto floured surface. Knead a couple of times and press into a circle about 1 inch thick. Dough will be sticky. Cut into 8 wedges or use a biscuit cutter. Brush tops of scones with reserved egg and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Place on prepared baking sheet and bake about 15 minutes, until golden brown. Makes 8 servings.

Lemon poppy-seed shortbread

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups flour
3 tablespoons poppy seeds

Position racks in center and top third of oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Lightly butter two baking sheets or line with parchment paper.

With electric mixer, beat butter, sugar, lemon zest and salt on medium high until light in color and texture, about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to low. Add flour and poppy seeds and mix until incorporated.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and divide into 4 pieces. Gently form each piece into a flat circle 1/2-inch thick. Arrange circles on baking sheets and slightly flatten each one.

Bake about 50 minutes, switching positions of baking sheets — top to bottom and front to back — at the halfway point. Circles should be light-colored and firm in middle.

Remove shortbread from oven and cut each circle into 10 wedges. Separate wedges and spread out on the baking sheets. Return shortbread to oven and bake until tips of cookies are firm, about 10 minutes.

Transfer cookies to wire racks and cool completely. Shortbread may be stored at room temperature in airtight containers up to one week. Makes 40 cookies.

Adapted from “The Baker’s Dozen Cookbook” by Julia Cookenboo (William Morrow, $40).

Teas of the world, clockwise from bottom left: Red Peony, rose petal, Jasmine and genmaicha. Photo/Special.

Tea varieties

Green tea: Unfermented and only lightly processed, it has half the caffeine and more antioxidants than black teas.

White tea: The expensive first buds of the tea plant are minimally processed, rich in antioxidants and delicately flavored.

Oolong: These Chinese teas, falling on the spectrum between green and black, are known for complex flavors and aromas.

Chai: An East Indian-style brew of black tea and spices, this drink is often made with foamed milk and termed a chai latte.

Rooibos: This mild herb from South Africa, also known as red bush tea, contains many nutrients but no caffeine.

— Knight Ridder Newspapers