Moving it indoors

Barbecue master takes his grilling techniques inside

By Jill Wendholt Silva
Knight Ridder Newspapers

Moving the fire indoors may seem like a departure for Steven Raichlen.

With titles ranging from the comprehensive “The Barbecue! Bible” to the esoteric “Beer Can Chicken: And 74 Other Offbeat Recipes for the Grill,” the best-selling cookbook author has become a brand-name in barbecue.

So if Raichlen’s newest release, “Indoor! Grilling” (Workman, $18.95), sounds like the final chapter in the franchise, fans fear not.

Raichlen insists he has yet to write his last word on barbecue.

“If you think about this demographically, a lot of the country can’t grill. It’s certainly in the tens of millions of people — city dwellers, condo dwellers, apartment dwellers,” he says.

Before starting to write the book, he had little knowledge about how indoor grills worked.

Here’s a quick run-down:

Contact grill: As with a waffle iron or a sandwich press, the weight of the lid presses down on the food, leaving well-defined grill marks. Panini machines also fall into this category.

Grill pan: Available in a variety of sizes and shapes, they’re small enough to fit across one or two burners on the stove. Unlike in outdoor grilling, the pan ridges allow the cook to collect the pan juices for use in sauces.

Built-in grill: The indoor equivalent of a charcoal grill, it’s a permanent feature in some gas and electric ranges.

Freestanding grill: Similar to a built-in grill, this appliance is usually small enough to fit on the countertop.

Fireplace grill: The fireplace is the oldest indoor grill. To cook in the fireplace requires a gridiron or Tuscan grill. Unlike the other varieties of indoor grilling, you’re actually cooking with fire rather than just heat.

Artichokes on a spit

2 large globe artichokes (1-1/2 to 2 pounds total)
1 lemon, cut in half
3 cloves garlic, cut into matchstick slivers
4 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground pepper
Saffron Aioli (see recipe)

Using kitchen shears, cut off and discard the spiny tips of the artichoke leaves. Cut the bottom 1/4 inch off each stem but leave the rest of the stem intact. Using a sharp knife, cut each artichoke lengthwise in quarters. Using a grapefruit spoon or melon baller, scrape out the fibrous part in the center of each artichoke. Rub all the cut parts of the artichokes with lemon juice to prevent discoloring.

Place 3 to 4 slivers of garlic between the leaves of each artichoke quarter, then generously brush the artichokes with olive oil, dabbing it between the leaves. Season the artichokes very liberally with salt and pepper. Arrange the artichoke quarters in a flat rotisserie basket so that the stem ends are on the inside and will be perpendicular to the spit. Close the basket tightly.

When ready to cook, place the drip pan in the rotisserie. Attach the basket to the rotisserie spit, then attach the spit to the rotisserie and turn on the motor. If your rotisserie has a temperature control, set it to 400 degrees.

Cook the artichokes until they are a deep golden brown on the outside and tender inside, 50 minutes to 1 hour. To test for doneness, insert a skewer in an artichoke; it should pierce the heart easily. Transfer the artichokes to a platter or plates and serve at once with the Saffron Aioli, if desired. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Saffron Aioli

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
2 teaspoons hot water
2 to 3 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
1 cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)
Tiny pinch of cayenne pepper
Freshly ground white pepper

Crumble the saffron threads between your fingers into a small mixing bowl. Add the water and let soak for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, mayonnaise and cayenne and whisk to mix. Season with white pepper to taste. The aioli can be refrigerated covered for up to 3 days. Makes about 1 cup.

Croque with gouda and mushroom hash

For the mushroom hash:
12 ounces fresh mushrooms, steamed and wiped clean with damp paper towels
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon salted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
2 to 3 large shallots, minced (for about 1/2 cup)
1 clove garlic, minced
1-1/2 tablespoons Cognac
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

For the croques:
4 slices (about 1/2 inch thick) dense white sandwich bread or whole-wheat bread
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) salted butter, at room temperature or melted
2 ounces thinly sliced aged Gouda (about 6 slices)
Cooking oil spray

For the mushroom hash: Cut any large mushrooms into quarters; cut smaller ones in half. Place the mushrooms and lemon juice in a food processor and finely chop, running the machine in short bursts and working in several batches if necessary, so you don’t crowd the bowl. Do not overprocess or you’ll reduce the mushrooms to mush.

Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until just beginning to brown, about 3 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the Cognac and bring to a boil; it will evaporate almost immediately, leaving a flavorful residue. Add the mushrooms and the parsley and increase the heat to high. Cook until all the mushroom juices have evaporated and the mixture is thick and concentrated, 4 to 6 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste; the mushroom hash should be highly seasoned. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered, until ready to use. The recipe can be prepared up to a day ahead to this stage.

Preheat the contact grill. If your grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill.

For the croques: Using a knife or pastry brush, spread or brush both sides of the slices of bread with the butter, buttering one side of each slice more heavily than the other. Place 2 slices of bread on a work surface, with the less heavily buttered side facing up. Arrange the cheese slices on top, trimming them so they come just to the edges of the bread. Place the cheese trimmings in the center of the sandwiches. Spoon the mushroom mixture over the top, dividing it evenly between the 2 sandwiches and spreading it out to the edges of the bread. Place the remaining 2 slices of bread on top, with the more heavily buttered side facing up.

When ready to cook, lightly coat the grill surface with cooking oil spray. Using a spatula, transfer the sandwiches to the hot grill and gently close the lid. Grill the sandwiches until the bread is browned and crisp and the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Serve at once. Makes 2 servings; can be multiplied as desired.