Perk up your palate

Citrus adds zest and zing

By Cleora Hughes
St. Louis Post-Dispatch

You’ve probably whizzed past them in the produce section, figuring they have nothing to do with you or the way you cook. The “they” of which we speak are unusual citrus fruits. And though most are exquisite in their beauty, frankly, a few look downright weird.

Some of the more exotic specimens, such as the tiny kumquat, are beautiful and delicate; some, like the pomelo, have names that slide off the tongue; and still others, such as the Buddha’s hand, are so odd and rumpled that they defy description.

Because many fruits are similar in taste, one can substitute for its cousin. For instance, a regular lemon can take the place of the trendy and less tart Meyer lemon in almost any recipe.

The best citrus fruits are blemish-free, richly colored, shiny, firm, heavy for their size (indicating juiciness) and fragrant. They can be stored up to one week at room temperature and up to two weeks in the refrigerator, unless otherwise noted.

Some citrus fruits are dyed to enhance their color and usually are stamped “color added.” Persons with food allergies should be aware of this treatment. Others are waxed to replace the natural wax that is removed during the washing process.

And while the flavors, textures, depth of color and flesh may vary, all citrus fruits have one characteristic in common: a tingly, acidity goodness that will perk up the palate on a gloomy, wintry day.

Oranges il giglio

8 navel oranges
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup Triple Sec or other orange liqueur
2 tablespoons brandy
1 tablespoon amaretto
1/4 cup Grand Marnier
Mint sprigs
8 almond or chocolate biscotti

Peel 2 oranges with a vegetable peeler so you get strips about 2 to 2-1/2 inches long and about 1/2 inch wide, taking care to avoid the white pith under the peel. Stack the peels, then cut them into julienne strips (the size of a matchstick).

Place the peels in a saucepan; add cold water just to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and simmer 15 minutes.

Drain orange strips; return to the saucepan. Add sugar and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring; simmer gently about 20 minutes to 30 minutes or until translucent. Let cool in the pan.

Meanwhile, peel oranges, removing all the white pith with a sharp paring knife. Section the oranges by cutting wedges between the membranes. Put the sections in a shallow dish.

In a small bowl, mix Triple Sec, brandy and amaretto. Pour over the sections, cover with plastic and refrigerate until ready to serve, at least several hours.

To serve, arrange sections in a ring on a plate, using as much of the soaking liquid as you wish. Put candied orange peel in the center; sprinkle the oranges with Grand Marnier. Garnish with fresh mint; serve with almond or chocolate biscotti.

This recipe, inspired by one served at the New York restaurant Il Giglio, was adapted from the Web site of food professional Sam Gugino, samcooks.com. Yield: 8 servings.

Sea bass with caper berries, green olives and meyer lemon

2 large Meyer or regular lemons
4 (6-ounce) sea bass fillets with skin
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
12 green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
8 caper berries (2 tablespoons), sliced (see note)
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt

Using a sharp knife, peel the lemons, removing the bitter white pith. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes, releasing the sections. Cut each section in half. Set aside.

Season the fish with salt and pepper to taste. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the fish, skin side down, and cook over high heat until golden on the bottom, about 5 minutes.

Flip the fish and cook until golden and heated through, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to plates, cover and keep warm.

Discard the olive oil from the skillet. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet along with olives, caper berries and garlic. Cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add lemon sections, stock and parsley; cook just until heated through, about 10 seconds. Spoon half the sauce over the fish, and pass the rest at the table. Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Caper berries are sold at gourmet stores.

Adapted from a recipe in the January issue of Food and Wine Magazine.

Tangerine chicken

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white or black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground red (cayenne) pepper
1-1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into strips
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup fresh tangerine juice
2 tangerines, peeled, halved crosswise, seeded and broken into segments

In a large zip-top bag, combine flour, thyme, salt and peppers. Pat chicken dry; add to the bag. Toss until chicken is coated.

Melt butter with oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When foam subsides, reduce heat to medium, add onion and saute for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add chicken and any remaining seasoned flour; cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Raise heat to high. Add broth and tangerine juice. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, until thickened. Add tangerine segments; simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through and tangerine segments are hot. Serve with rice, noodles or crusty bread. Yield: 6 servings.

Adapted from Chef Guide for Chefs at chef2chef.net.

Western chicken salad in grapefruit shells

2 grapefruit
1-1/2 cups cubed cooked chicken
1 small avocado, cubed
2 tablespoons sliced green onions
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt, optional
1/8 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

Cut grapefruit in half. With a curved grapefruit knife, cut around each section to loosen the flesh from the membrane; remove and reserve the sections of fruit. Squeeze the juice from the shells to equal 1/3 cup.

With a spoon, scrape the grapefruit shells clean. Scallop or notch the edges, if desired. Chill.

While the shells are chilling, combine the reserved grapefruit sections, chicken, avocado and green onions in a bowl. Combine the 1/3 cup grapefruit juice, oil, sugar, salt and pumpkin pie spice. Pour over the chicken mixture; mix lightly. Cover and chill.

To serve, use a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken mixture to the grapefruit shells, then top with as much dressing as desired.

To prevent slipping, cut a thin slice from the bottom of the shell. If desired, place in a plastic bag, seal and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to use. Yield: 4 main-dish servings.

Adapted from “Cooking with Sunshine,” from the Sunkist Kitchens (Atheneum, $24.95).