Meat and potatoes are not necessarily what Grandma used to serve for Sunday dinner anymore. The simple meatloaf with mashed potatoes or roast beef with scalloped spuds holds classic appeal. But the comfort combo is getting a sophisticated spin by a new generation of home cooks and chefs.
The Slow Food movement, advocating a reliance on seasonal local produce, has encouraged farmers to grow unusual potato varieties, while chefs who support this seasonal approach are adding a dash of creativity.
Meat choices are expanding as well. Grass-fed beef and free-range chickens are increasingly part of the menu offerings at upscale restaurants.
Honey mustard pork shoulder with caraway potatoes
3 to 5 pounds boneless pork shoulder, butterfly cut 5 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard 5 tablespoons honey 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1/2 teaspoon sea salt (divided) 3/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (divided) 1 cup bread crumbs (divided) 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for potatoes 6 medium potatoes, skinned and quartered 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika 4 tablespoons chopped parsley 1/4 cup dry white wine 1 cup chicken or beef stock
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Place butterflied pork shoulder onto clean cutting board, cut side up, and using sharp chefs knife, lightly score meat about 1/4-inch deep.
In small bowl, combine mustard, honey and minced garlic cloves until well blended. Lightly season meat with 1/8 teaspoon sea salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Using soup spoon, spread half the mustard mixture onto the scored meat, being sure to work it into the cuts. Sprinkle bread crumbs over meat, and gently roll meat back into tight sausage shape. Using kitchen twine, secure meat every inch along width to hold the filling in. Season outside of meat with 1/8 teaspoon of remaining sea salt and 1/8 teaspoon of remaining pepper.
In medium skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat, then add rolled pork and saute on all sides until lightly browned.
While meat is browning, place quartered potatoes in large mixing bowl and season with olive oil, caraway seeds, remaining 1/4 teaspoon sea salt, remaining 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper, the garlic powder and paprika, and, using hands, toss to coat thoroughly. Pour potatoes into large, non-stick roasting pan, then shake pan so potatoes are evenly distributed.
When meat is thoroughly browned on all sides, remove from skillet and place it directly onto potatoes, and pour any excess pan juices from skillet over potatoes. Place pan into preheated oven and cook exactly 30 minutes, then remove pan and quickly spread remaining mustard mixture on top of meat. Sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup bread crumbs and parsley on top of that, and return to oven to cook another 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, remove meat to platter, then pour white wine and stock over potatoes. Return pan to oven and let potatoes cook another 20 minutes, until brown and tender.
Carefully remove string from roast, and using sharp chefs knife, cut meat into thin slices. Serve with roasted potatoes. Makes 4 servings.
Pan-seared filet mignon with roasted potatoes and merlot sauce
12 assorted red and yellow pearl onions, unpeeled 2 cups vegetable oil plus 1/4 cup vegetable oil (about) (divided) Salt and pepper to taste 4 large russet (baking) potatoes (about 2 pounds total) 6 filet mignon steaks (1-1/4-inch-thick; about 3 pounds total) 2 cups Merlot sauce (see recipe)
In medium saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch onions 3 minutes, or until barely tender. Drain in colander. Peel skin away from each onion, keeping it attached at root end, and pat onion dry.
In heavy saucepan, heat 2 cups oil until deep-fat thermometer registers 375 degrees. Fry onions in 2 batches until crisp and brown, about 1 minute.
Transfer onions as fried with slotted spoon to paper towels and drain. Season onions with salt and pepper and cool. Onions may be made 8 hours ahead and kept, covered, at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees and oil 2 baking sheets.
Cut potatoes lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices and arrange in one layer on baking sheets. Lightly brush slices with some of the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast potatoes in middle and lower thirds of oven until golden brown and tender, about 35 minutes, and keep warm.
Pat filets dry and season with salt and pepper. In large heavy skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high high heat until hot but not smoking and brown filets on both sides, without crowding, about 5 minutes total. Transfer filets to shallow baking pan and roast in middle of oven about 10 minutes for medium-rare.
On each of 6 plates, fan 3 potato slices and top with filet. Drizzle filets with some sauce and garnish with onions. Serve remaining sauce on side. Makes 6 servings.
Merlot sauce
1/4 cup water 1/4 cup sugar 3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar 1 cup finely chopped onion (about 1 medium) 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups Merlot or other dry red wine 2 cups rich veal stock or demiglace
In small, heavy saucepan, bring water with sugar to boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Boil syrup, without stirring, until golden caramel color. Remove pan from heat and carefully add vinegar down side of pan (caramel will steam and harden). Cook caramel over medium heat, stirring, until dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat.
In heavy saucepan, cook onion in butter over medium heat, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in wine and boil until mixture is reduced to about 1 cup, about 15 minutes. Stir in stock or demiglace and boil until mixture is reduced to about 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in caramel. Pour sauce through sieve into bowl. Sauce may be made 2 days ahead, cooled completely and chilled, covered. Reheat sauce before serving.